A Metalhead in Norway: My Journey to the Inferno Festival – Part 1
As a metal musician from Algeria, I never imagined that my first trip to Norway would be through an invitation to speak at the prestigious Inferno Conference, held alongside the iconic Inferno Metal Festival in Oslo. I was invited to join a panel discussion on the state of metal in the MENA (Middle East and North Africa) region, along with Shayan from Iran and Gigi Arabia from Saudi Arabia. The panel was hosted by Lina Khatib, the founder of the World Metal Congress, a platform that promotes metal scenes across the globe.
In this three-part article, I’ll take you through my five-day experience in Norway – my first time visiting this country – from the conference and festival to a very special guided tour on the legendary Black Metal Bus. Let’s dive into the journey.
Day 1 –
Arrival in Oslo
My trip began very early – painfully early, in fact. I had to wake up at 2:45
AM to catch a flight at 6:30 AM. After landing in Paris
around 10:00 AM, I had a long layover at Charles de Gaulle Airport until my
connecting flight at 2:15 PM, which gave me time to wander around the
terminal and publish a few online posts.
I finally
landed in Oslo at 4:35 PM, local time. From the airport, I took
the train straight to the central station – and just like that, I found myself
in the heart of the Norwegian capital.
The first
thing that struck me was the atmosphere: the city was quiet, almost eerily so.
Compared to the chaos of Algiers or even Paris, there were very
few people and even fewer cars. The air felt clean, and the temperature was
much milder than I expected.
I made my way to my accommodation: the Clarion Hotel The Hub, a four-star hotel and the official venue for both the festival and the conference. Everything about the hotel impressed me – the clean, organized interior, the friendly and welcoming staff, and especially the attention to sustainability. In Norway, the environment is taken very seriously, and you can feel that in many subtle ways. For example, the main lights in my hotel room didn’t even turn on until nightfall – a detail I’ll come back to later.
After
checking in and dropping off my luggage, I set out to find a SIM card,
which is essential in a hyper-digital city like Oslo where everything – from
transportation to event access – depends on having an internet connection.
Once
connected, I took a short walk around the city center and checked the festival
program. To my regret, I had just missed the Indie Recordings Party, but
there was still the Welcome Party and a touching tribute to
Jan-Martin Jansen, the founder of Inferno Festival who sadly passed away
from cancer in February. The tribute was held at SALT art & music,
just 15 minutes from the hotel. Still, I decided to rest – I’d been awake since
before dawn, and the next day promised to be intense.
Day 2 –
The Inferno Conference Panel
I woke up around 9:00 AM, picked up my phone... and was met with the
dreaded message: “Please enter PUK code.” I looked everywhere, but
couldn’t find the SIM packaging. Typical – something you only find the day
after you need it.
I went down
to the hotel breakfast, and let me tell you – as Erin Lynch (The Head of
conference) had said, it was easily one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve ever
had. There, I met up with Shayan, Gigi, and Lina for a
quick prep session before our panel later that day. We had a few minor
disagreements, but overall we were aligned in our message.
After our
meeting, I headed out to search for a new SIM card. Since it was Easter,
nearly everything was closed. Eventually, I found a small kiosk in Oslo’s
Somali district, where the locals were kind and helpful. Armed with a new
SIM, I returned to the hotel to get ready for the big event.
Before our panel, there were several fascinating discussions – especially the one titled “In Defense of Valhalla.” Featuring the former President of Iceland and Johan Hegg, the legendary vocalist of Amon Amarth, the panel explored the use of Norse mythology in modern times – from cultural preservation to the disturbing trend of appropriation by hate groups.
At 2:00
PM, it was our turn. We took our seats, and Lina began the session by
introducing herself and the World Metal Congress, which aims to unite
metal artists, fans, and experts across borders to share culture, music, and
ideas for the future.
She
introduced Gigi Arabia, who founded Heavy Arabia Entertainment in
Saudi Arabia and brought Cryptopsy, the first international metal band,
to perform in the country. Then came my turn – Redouane, a veteran of
the MENA metal scene for over three decades.
Finally,
she introduced Shayan, an Iranian metalhead now based in the UK, founder
and frontman of Trivax, and creator of the Iblis Manifestations
podcast.
The
discussion kicked off with Shayan, who explained that in Iran, women are
not allowed to sing in public – not just in metal, but in any genre. He
described his youth, discovering Metallica like so many of us did, and
explained that Iran is a theocracy ruled by religious extremists, where
playing or even listening to metal is considered a criminal act. Despite the
fear and repression, he risked everything to keep playing.
Then it was
my turn. Lina set the scene: “It’s 1992, Algeria is in the middle of a civil
war. Journalists are being assassinated by Islamist militants... and Redouane
appears on the scene. What were you doing?”
With a
smile, I told the audience: we were innocent, ignorant, and above all –
passionate about music. We discovered metal through Metallica and MTV’s
Headbangers Ball. Instead of picking up weapons, we picked up instruments.
That was our way of expressing ourselves.
We were
living through what became known as The Black Decade, a brutal civil war
in Algeria. Islamist extremists had won the elections, but the government
canceled the results, leading to bombings, massacres, and chaos. Amid all that,
we started playing metal – forming bands, rehearsing, and eventually writing our
own songs.
Looking
back, I realize how insane it was – but at the time, we were just young and
driven by music.
Shayan
echoed this, saying that coming from places where metal is suppressed makes us
unique, and that we deserve to be heard for what we’ve endured. He recounted
his first concert in Tehran in 2011 – a secret show disguised as a
celebration of the Islamic Republic’s anniversary. The audience, all male (as
required), had never heard metal before. The show featured drums and guitars,
but no vocals (since singing in English was also banned).
They played
for 45 minutes until smoke started to fill the building – they thought they
were going to die. But it turned out they had accidentally set the school on
fire! The show was cut short, but that was his first experience performing live
– and in a way, it was as black metal as it gets.
Lina also
shared a story about Lebanon, where metal was banned at one point by the
government. She had a radio show back then – and played metal without the
authorities even realizing what it was.
At that
point, Lina turned the focus of the discussion toward the story of Saudi
Arabia, which Gigi was about to dive into...
At this
point, Lina shifts the discussion to a different story—that of Saudi Arabia—by
introducing the well-known Gigi Arabia. She says: "Imagine there's a woman
organizing metal concerts in Saudi Arabia, running her own company, and she
even booked Cryptopsy to play there." Lina explains that this is a
different context from what we’ve heard so far, and invites Gigi to tell her
story.
Gigi Arabia
begins by saying that while their stories may be different, they share the same
challenges. She notes that in the past, there was a misconception about Saudi
Arabia, especially regarding the banning of metal music at concerts. However,
she clarifies that it wasn't just metal—all music was banned in public
events, regardless of genre, whether pop, rock, or metal.
Things started to change in 2016 when the government announced Vision 2030, a strategic framework to diversify the economy and reduce dependency on oil. Music was identified as playing a key role in contributing to this vision. That’s when the first signs of change appeared—starting with sporting events and eventually leading to the first edition of the Soundstorm Festival in 2019.
This gave
Gigi the confidence to start her own company, organizing concerts for genres
that had never had a chance to be highlighted in Saudi Arabia. She was—and
still is—the first and only person to do this kind of work in the region.
Initially, she partnered with a label in Dubai before founding her own concert
and event company specifically for metal shows.
Lina asks
what has happened since then.
Gigi
continues: In 2019, a local grindcore band played what she described as the first above-ground gig since the launch of Vision 2030 in 2016. After the
COVID-19 pandemic, things picked up again, and in 2022 she was able to organize
several events—including Cryptopsy, who were the first international
metal band to ever play in Saudi Arabia, two weeks before Metallica's
historic concert there. She shares a fun fact: Cryptopsy didn’t even know at
first that they were playing in Saudi Arabia—they woke up one day to find a
Saudi tour date on their schedule.
After
Cryptopsy, Metallica came, and a documentary about Metallica's experience in
Saudi Arabia was produced. Another event featured artists like Kiko
Loureiro and Wolfheart from Finland (in December 2024), and included
a local guitar competition that ended up inspiring the formation of
several new bands.
Most
recently, Gigi completed a government-sponsored accelerator program,
where her company was selected as one of 15 finalists from an initial
250 businesses. The goal? To organize the first open-air metal festival in
Saudi Arabia, which may happen in 2026. She emphasizes that there is
indeed government support for this cultural transformation—and that
metal is now part of that.
She even
hints that some bands from Norway’s Inferno Festival may be included in
the Saudi lineup.
Lina points
out that the real “boom” happened in 2022—just three years ago—and the scale
and speed of this transformation are simply extraordinary.
Gigi
responds: "You have to understand, I still have a full-time job. We have
to keep up, and everything we do is driven by passion—even when it's extremely
difficult. There’s a lot of pressure, many obstacles, but it’s the passion that
keeps us going. I wanted to contribute to Vision 2030 and be involved in
the music scene, because I love this kind of music—whether it’s local bands or
international acts."
Then Lina
brings up the new Metallica documentary about their fans. She mentions
that both she and Gigi appear in it, and encourages everyone to check it out
when it’s released. She adds that Metallica’s performance in Saudi Arabia sent
a global message—that the country is changing and now welcoming
everyone.
Now we
return to Algeria, and Lina asks me what the situation is like now and what
we’re currently doing.
I explain that there are many bands trying to prepare to perform abroad in
order to export the local metal scene internationally. We're also trying
to reorganize concerts. The Algerian cultural environment was deeply
affected by COVID, because the government didn’t support the arts during
the pandemic. As a result, many musicians stopped playing—they had problems in
their daily lives and had to give up music.
But now things are improving, and we’re planning to organize more shows,
produce new albums, and export all of that.
Then Lina
tells the audience that I’m part of Lelahell, and she asks how many of
them have seen me perform with the band—for example at Incineration Festival
in the UK. She adds that we’ve played in several countries across Europe.
I continue
the discussion and say that we’ve performed in 17 countries: Malta,
Liechtenstein, Slovenia, Slovakia, France, Poland, Spain, Italy… and
everywhere, people kept asking the same question:
"You’re from Algeria, but you don’t actually live in Algeria,
right?"
And we would answer:
"No—we’re based in Algeria."
That really
surprised people. They were impressed to see us doing 15-show tours, and
they would ask:
"Ah, so you have a big booking agent?"
And I would tell them:
"No, I book the dates myself."
I’ve gained experience by organizing many concerts and festivals in the past,
like the Lelahel Festival.
Some
international bands also came to play in Algeria—they were underground bands,
but they were received like Metallica, because they were the first ever
to perform in Algeria.
For example, there was a French band called Slavery who played
metalcore. People wanted their autographs, and there was a huge crowd at
the concerts.
It was truly something amazing.
Now Shayan
talks to us about one of the photos showing his band SDS (Seven Deadly Sins)
performing at Tehran University. He believes this was the first metal
concert there, back in 2005, so quite a long time ago. That day,
they played covers of songs by Death, but without vocals, since
singing was banned at the time.
Today,
there are many passionate people in Iran and quite a few active bands. For
instance, Atash from the band Kaaboos performed outside the
Iranian embassy in Oslo as a form of protest against the government's
restrictions.
Shayan
says, sadly, Iran is currently in the hands of mafias who oppress women.
He adds that female metal musicians in Iran have more courage than he does,
because performing under those conditions takes real bravery. Despite the
government's extremist ideology, he believes they’re not as competent as they
pretend to be.
He also
humbly mentions that there are many guitarists in Iran who are far better
than him, highlighting how much talent the country has.
Unfortunately, they have no way to show it. He says that for a band to
really know what they’re doing, they need to perform at least 100 shows,
but many in Iran think that after playing one or two gigs, they’ll be famous or
signed to a big label.
But the
reality is that Iranian bands don't even have the chance to play that
many concerts. That’s why Shayan feels truly honored—not only to break
through the borders and barriers of his country, but also to do it here in Europe,
carrying the torch for the entire region and showing the world:
“Look, we’re here.”
His band
Trivax released the song ‘Asrael’, which has reached 898,000 views—more
than many black metal bands in Europe. It's proof that Iranian black metal
exists, and it deserves recognition.
They also
collaborated with the Iranian channel RealxSnake , whose creator is based in Turkey but still works closely with
Iran. The channel made a documentary about Trivax's story. The best
feedback they received? Young teens, just 13 or 14 years old, commented
on the video saying that it inspired them to pick up a guitar and start
playing metal.
And
honestly, that’s the best kind of feedback any of us could ask for—because
it means the next generation is being prepared to carry the torch, and
hopefully, one day, they’ll be able to do it in Iran itself.
Now let’s
talk about women and Saudi Arabia, says Lina. She asks: What is the
situation like for women and the metal scene there?
Gigi responds, pointing to a photo behind the screen of an old all-female rock band that will go on an EU tour soon. Today, women are found in leadership roles at record labels and artist management companies. She also shares that she’s been appointed as the president of the MMF—though it hasn’t officially started yet.
This, she
says, is part of a larger push to empower women in the music industry.
There’s now a Music Commission under the Ministry of Culture, and
50% of its members are women. These women are not just
participating—they are making decisions and shaping the future of local
music.
Gigi adds,
“And here I am in Norway, talking about metal. That says a lot in itself.”
Lina picks
up the thread and notes that even in European countries, government
support for music isn’t always a given. "In Norway, sure—but in the UK?
Trust me, it’s a very different story.”
Gigi jumps
back in to highlight the Hunna initiative—named after the Arabic
feminine plural for "they"—which is a female-led platform aimed at
amplifying female talent across the MENA region. Women in this initiative share
resources, exchange job opportunities within the music industry, and
collaborate on albums. It’s a space where women support each other, and
Gigi notes:
“You can see that new initiatives like this are emerging every day.”
Lina picks
up the conversation again, pointing at Gigi and saying, "Here,
we have a lot of opportunities." Then she gestures toward Shayan
and adds, "And here, we’ve got a lot of 'we're going to do it no matter
what' spirit." Finally, she points to me, in the middle, and
says:
"And here we have Redouane. You've tried, you're still trying, and
you've been working at this for 30 years. Based on your experience, what can
this audience do to help people like you—and the new generation you've inspired
across the region—continue this work? What can we do as a global metal
community?"
I respond:
"First
and foremost, as a community, it's about support.
That means listening to these bands—like Shayan said earlier—not as 'bands from
that region,' and not as some kind of 'exotic' act. Just listen to them as music.
Back in the
early 2000s, there were a lot of compilations labeled 'exotic metal' or
'oriental metal'—that was the trend at the time, with bands like Orphaned
Land and Melechesh. But we shouldn't put bands into those boxes
anymore.
Listen to the music for what it is—because there's real potential.
Support the
music itself, and support the bands when they reach out to the media or to
event organizers. Don’t approach it with prejudice or assumptions. Treat
them like any other metal band—because metal is universal.
I used to
run a website called LELAHEL Metal, which has recently been revived, and
through that platform I discovered so many amazing bands—especially from Southeast
Asia and South America, where there’s an incredible amount of energy
in the scene. Metal is everywhere.
So
support us the same way you support your local bands. That’s how we move
forward—together."
Shayan
turns to me and says, "You brought up a really important point—that
when you listen to these bands, you should listen to them simply for who they
are."
He
continues:
"We need to redefine what it means to be a metal musician in Iran. More
broadly, it's important to understand that the negative image often associated
with our region comes from how our governments are portrayed in the media. But
that doesn't reflect the musicians themselves. In fact, you'll find that 99.99%
of these musicians are against those regimes. They want nothing to do
with that kind of ideology or control.
So, give
everyone a fair chance. At the end of the day, it really comes down to just one
thing: is the music good?
There’s so
much talent—especially when you look at it from an industry perspective. But
that talent needs refinement. It’s like crude oil—you have to refine it before
it becomes fuel. It's the same for musicians: there's immense raw potential
that just needs the right opportunities to grow.
Personally,
I’m incredibly grateful to be on this side of things—to be touring, to be
signed with Osmose Productions, and to be sitting here on a panel like
this with such amazing people beside me.
So please, keep
an open mind—and give people a chance."
Gigi jumps
back in, saying:
"You’ve all made an important point about giving everyone a fair chance.
But I also want to add something about journalistic ethics.
One of the challenges I faced after founding Heavy Arabia and starting to gain more attention was dealing with journalists—unfortunately, in two separate instances, both were women—who deliberately removed my name from press releases. Even worse, they changed my pronouns from 'she' to 'he.' That’s something I had to confront directly.
If you
think about it, that’s a really sad form of censorship—the very kind that
Western media often criticizes our region for. And yet, here it is happening to
us from their side.
Another
issue is that some journalists come in with a fixed narrative in their head.
They already know how they want to tell the story before they’ve even listened.
Then when the article comes out, you realize it’s barely about the music at
all—just a shallow intro and then nothing of real substance.
That kind
of coverage isn’t just unhelpful—it’s counterproductive. It fails to show these
bands in their best light.
So here’s
my ask: speak honestly about these bands. Give them the right kind of
attention. And please—don’t erase their struggles. They matter."
Lina steps
back in and says, “What we’re talking about here is prejudice and
ignorance.”
Gigi then
brings up a press release where it said: “Gigi Arabia, founder of Heavy
Arabia Entertainment, said ‘…’” — but when the article was published, it
read: “The organizer of Heavy Arabia said ‘…’” — and used “he”
instead of “she.”
Lina then
announces, “We have a few minutes left for questions. If anyone would like
to ask something, just raise your hand. And I hope to see you all again—even in
all this darkness.”
Audience
Question:
“Thank you for sharing your stories from such different regions. You
mentioned that you want to be judged on your own merit, whether on the European
or American scene—and I think that’s completely fair. You don’t want to give
the impression that you’ve been handed a boost; you want to earn your place.
Shayan
Responds: But do you think there’s room to also embrace your origins—your
backgrounds in countries with repression, different challenges, and unique
cultures—as part of the message?
Because
personally, I find the stories behind the music meaningful. So I’m wondering:
how can we communicate that incredible music is coming out of your region,
music that deserves to be picked up by major labels? How can we help the rest
of the world say, ‘Hey, there’s a fascinating scene growing here—look at these
faces’—is there a way to do that?”
“Yes,
that’s a really good question—thank you. And honestly, what we’re doing right
now is exactly how we get the message out. This is how we share the story.
I also
agree with what you said. I’ve spoken a lot about the history of Trivax—about
what we did in Iran’s underground scene, the shows we played there, and how it
all led to me relocating to the UK. I’ve shared those stories openly.
But here’s
the thing: I want our band to be judged based on our music, not because we come
from an oppressive country and deserve sympathy or special treatment. That’s
the line I draw.
In fact, I
think this goes beyond geography. It’s a human story. Because this isn’t just
about being a metal musician. We all face hardships in life—challenges that, at
some point, seem impossible to overcome. Every one of us has their own version
of that story.
You, for
example, may have grown up in a liberal society—but I’m sure you’ve still had
your battles. They may be different from mine—growing up in Iran, playing music
when it was dangerous—but the core is the same.
This is a
human experience that anyone can relate to, and hopefully apply to their own
life. Whatever your obstacle is—whether it’s about career, health, dreams—you
can use this mindset to push through. That’s the spirit I hope we’re
communicating.”*
Lina
adds:
“Any other questions? Come on—how often do you get the chance to be part of
a panel like this?”
Second
question:
You mentioned government funding in Saudi Arabia. When the government
supports your businesses, projects, or festivals — are there conditions? Do
they expect you to promote their political agenda in return?
Gigi
responds:
We do have a national funding body in place, and music is currently one of
the sectors they’re exploring. However, everything remains quite vague — these
aren’t music-specific funds, so it’s still a very unclear area. We know the
money exists, but it’s not directed toward concrete music projects like album
releases, tours, or festivals.
Unlike,
say, the Norwegian funds — which are flexible and offer real support for
creative output — we don’t yet have anything like that. We dream of it,
honestly. Right now, artists don’t have access to that kind of structured
financial support. That said, we’re aware that the government is working on
creating a proper framework, so there is hope for the future.
Third
question from the audience:
My first question was about music funding in Saudi Arabia — which you
already answered, thank you. I also have a broader question: do you have any
suggestions for the European music industry when it comes to journalistic
ethics, particularly around promoting bands from your region?
Gigi
responds:
That’s a really good question. Personally, I try to attend as many
conferences and industry events as possible to build bridges between Saudi
Arabia and the rest of the world. But the relationship is still very one-sided
— people are excited to come here for the “exotic” experience, but it’s rarely
reciprocal.
There’s
no import-export mentality. It’s not like, “If I invite your band to play at my
festival, I’ll also bring my band to yours.” Of course, we do have an official
music delegation that meets twice a year, but beyond that, most efforts are
entirely individual. I’m really trying to change that.
I’ve attended events like Talinn Music Week and other global music conferences, just to encourage this kind of exchange and create more balanced relationships.
Lina
says:
“Thank you — our time is up. As you can see, we’ve had three true heavy metal
ambassadors on this panel. Of course, we could go on talking for hours—days
even—but we only had 45 minutes.
I encourage
you to speak with them afterward, collaborate with them, dive into their music.
Redouane is currently working on new material — both a solo project and more
with Lelahell. He’s also brought a bunch of items to share with everyone
here — all 100% free (holding them up) — so please, take whatever you like!
And if
you’re not yet familiar with Shayan’s podcast Iblis Manifestation,
please give it a listen. Through it, he’s created a platform for others and
continues to enrich the global metal community.
Each one of
you here contributes to that spirit, and it’s truly an honor for me to share
this stage with you. Thank you so much for being with us today.
This panel may be over — but the story isn’t. I’ve chosen to spread the rest across other articles, because there’s so much more to share with you. So, until next time!
You can watch the full video conference here:
Some related links:
IBLIS MANIFESTATIONS - Extreme Podcast for Extreme People
(@lelahell) • Instagram photos and videos
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